Exploring the village of Pájara and unravelling the Pajara Code

Fuerteventura is an amazing place to visit and there are so many amazing places to enjoy, whether its losing yourself in a book on one of the sun drenched beaches or enjoying the delights inside some of Fuerteventura's lovely hotels. But to fully appreciate this beautiful island, step outside and explore, as you may be amazed at what you find. For example, how about a nice little trip to the old town of Pajara?

Uncovering the Pájara Code

An article by Local Historian, Bernie Power, with The Voice Fuerteventura

Pájara is one of the oldest settlements on the island and was an off-shoot from Betancuria ( which was the original Capital of Fuerteventura). It survived complete destruction after the Arab invasion of 1593, when all of Betancuria was reduced to rubble. 

Pájara in Fuerteventura

Pájara is a medium sized town, located in the South Western part of the island. It is one of the main municipalities in Fuerteventura and located around 25 miles or 40K from the airport, in an area known localy as the Jandia Peninsula. It is a place many people stop at to stock up with essentials when heading to the beaches of MorroJable or Sotavento, or refuel after a long day surfing or sunbathing on one of the fabulous beaches that the south of Fuerteventura has to offer.

The town may be quite small by UK standards, but it has everything you need and it a great place to stop and enjoy a spot of lunch or some local tapas. 

Pajara - The Home of the Hen

The town takes its name from the Spanish word for female bird. Typically, the hen pheasant which can be seen among the amazing Aztec carvings around the door of the church in the square. The church is named Nuestra Señora de Regla. This means our Lady of the rule. She was created in the 4th century by St. Augustine to safeguard all the many rules he made for his monks! The church was dedicated to her and building was started in 1687 but took 25 years in total to complete. 

Ancient Symbols in Pajara

If you look above the doorway, you will see a very ancient symbol that consists of two serpents devouring their tales. It is thousands of years old and existed all around the world in many cultures. It is called Ouroborus and signifies eternal life. You will see them on the towns coat of Arms too. 

Symbols and signs in Pájara 

All around the portico are carved symbols including a Trinity of Indian chiefs, serpents with tongues and an exposed heart. When you look closer you will find many more. It is believed that these are Aztec symbols, which makes them a strange choice of carving for a Christian Church. Especially when you research the exposed heart symbol and its significance in Ancient Aztec religion. They believed that the heart or “tona” was the seat of the individual and there are many references to them cutting open peoples chests and offering their blood and hearts to particular idols. 

Funding From Afar

Much of the building was funded by a returning immigrant-merchant from the New world.  He influenced the carvings and reputedly brought the Madonna that resides in the church, from his new homeland. By 1560 the Augustinian monks had fifty priories in Mexico and were also very powerful here in Fuerteventura.  If you wander around the church, there are many wonderful art works to enjoy, especially the altars, and if you look closely, you may be able to work out more of the builder’s message!

The whole town centre is a delightful reminder of the past and covered with many trees to shade from the sun. By the church forecourt is an original, donkey-driven water wheel. This is how the locals used to get their water. It is still working although the donkey now (thankfully) has the day off! There are also many more restored buildings to enjoy and it is a nice place to visit, wander round and enjoy a nice lunch. And while doing so, maybe you can decipher the strange carvings and crack the enigma that is “The Pajara Code.”